Spray Paint Issue

[tnbndr]

Ok, this has happened to me twice in the last couple months. What would cause this?
I am using all Rustoleum products, primer, paint, clear coat. This happens after applying the clear coat, but not as I am spraying. I find this when I go to collect the finished piece. I am waiting the required time per the can instructions between coats.

[CNCCAJUN]

I would send an e-mail to Rustoleum with the picture & a list of the products used and the conditions they were applied in.

You will get an answer & probably some coupons for more paint . . .

Steve

They will know . . . .

[wickedinhere]

I have seen this when the metal is really cold or making a heavy coat instead of a few light coats.

[acourtjester]

That happens with fiberglass gelcoat when the cover coat melts the first coat.
How much time to you allow the base coat to dry (cure) before you re-coat???

[muzza]

You can also get it spraying an acrylic or laquer solvent clear over an enamel base.

[cbassjr]

I can tell you exactly what's happening. When you use any rattle can spray you can only get one coat the cutting agent (usually acetone based) they use in the cans will wrinkle the first coat as soon as you use any rattle can clear coat or second coat of paint on top it will do this. Only way to resolve is to use automotive paint in a paint gun and all these problems will disappear. You don't know how long I chased this problem wrote the manufactures, posted issues on here etc. And got all kinds of excuses I still do some rattle can painting on quickie small jobs when I don't want to have to clean the gun, but it's a one heavy coat shoot then wet sand, buff out and polish any runs and no rattle can clear coat unless I use automotive clear coat with the hardener with my air spray gun. I even tried SteelFX clear coat and it will run the dyes unless you shoot it on with the piece laying flat. Look at the back of the cans and you will see the rattle cans use acetone. As soon as I did what I told you above no more wrinkles and bs. Trust me I've spent hours resanding pieces to bare metal only to get the same results as soon as the second coat hits the wrinkles start.

[tnbndr]

How much time to you allow the base coat to dry (cure) before you re-coat???

48 hours per the can instructions or less than 1 hour.

cbassjr:
So Rustoleum clear coat will not work over their paints no matter what? Seems odd but I am inclined to believe you after what I have seen.

[cbassjr]

How much time to you allow the base coat to dry (cure) before you re-coat???

48 hours per the can instructions or less than 1 hour.

cbassjr:
So Rustoleum clear coat will not work over their paints no matter what? Seems odd but I am inclined to believe you after what I have seen.

Trust me I fought this s@% t for about 4-6 months I heard everything from not clean metal, not letting dry enough between coats, you name it I heard what made me finally realize what was going on I had just done a project with SteelFX dyes (which are acetone based) and had it hanging up and shot it with a rattle can of clear coat and literally before my eyes the dyes started running everywhere which is what got me to my next process. So I read the ingredients from about 6 different brands of rattle cans and everyone had acetone as the mixer so I took a scrap piece of bare steel, acidized it, buffed it out with flap disc, throughly cleaned it, shot it with one coat of rattle can paint (finish was flawless), waited 48 hours (also baked during the 48 hrs for first 6 hours under heat lamp) and shot it with another coat of same color and within 30 minutes it started cracking and wrinkling just like your project above. Did same as above again only second coat was rattle can clear coat same thing. Now if it's a quickie paint job and I'm using rattle can I do only one coat, dry it and out the door if project requires clear coat then I I use automotive clear coat with hardener from my spray gun and it's out the door no problems. So you can try an experiment as I did to believe it for yourself or continue on and wonder. But I think by the looks of your project above my point is fact just trying to save you 4-6 months of frustrating bs that I went through. Have a good day.....

[tnbndr]

But I think by the looks of your project above my point is fact just trying to save you 4-6 months of frustrating bs that I went through.

I believe you without spending 4-6 months. Single coats rattle can, no clear.
Thanks for the feedback.

[abmetal]

I use Rust-Oleum a lot. It's the problem of the paint NOT being dry, even after 48 hours. Rust-Oleum has SOME paint that dries fairly quickly and some that does not...even after 48 hours, especially if you put it on heavy. I usually clearcoat with light coats shortly after applying the color, before the base coat has a chance to dry and I don't have any problems. Most of their specialty paints dry fairly quickly but the plain ole' red, white, blue, etc. do not. Here in Missouri with the high humidity, I've had some Rust-Oleum paint jobs to still be tacky/soft after two days.

Allen

[radnurse68]

Hey Dennis,

I see that you engraved your piece after painting it. I have an engraver on my table but haven't used it much and it looks like it works good on painted pieces. do you any tips for suggestions on that subject?

Thanks,

Steve