We have our own now . . . .

[CNCCAJUN]

Thank you . . .

We can now have a place to post all things DYNATORCH ! ! !

Since Dynatorch has it's own operating software this would be a good place to post any tips or questions that could be answered by other Dynatorch owners. . .

As for me, I am headed to FABTECH 2014 in November, so if someone has a question about a Dynatorch machine or a picture of something needed let me know. I will be visiting all the Dynatorch guys for a few days. . .

Steve

[wilber]

this is great

[TMC]

Thanks for starting this forum. Can't wait to see some posts

[CNCCAJUN]

Me too . . .

If you think of something Dynatorch specific you want to ask or share, please do so here.

We gotta start somewhere . .

steve

[TMC]

ok, I will start. In your DynaTorch cutting software what percent do you typically run your corner speeds at for mild steel? and do you have it set differently for each thickness of metal? It came from them set at about 30% but I had changed up to around 75 percent. Cutting the intricate artsy stuff takes a lot of fine tuning.

[CNCCAJUN]

I have made zero changes to tuning.

Did your changes help?

You are way ahead of me . . .

Steve

[TMC]

I have reduced the pierce delay and I have the torch stop the arc before the end of the cut. Playing with these two items I have managed to drastically improve the "divot" at the start point. By increasing the corner speeds I have drastically reduced dross on this artsy stuff but have an over cut bump in some of the 90 degree corners. So I'm still playing with settings. I have noticed some play in the mounting surfaces of the collision protection mount, I'm not sure if this is causing my overshoot in corners or not. Might need to call Leon for some advice on this one.

[CNCCAJUN]

I have reduced the pierce delay and I have the torch stop the arc before the end of the cut. Playing with these two items I have managed to drastically improve the "divot" at the start point. By increasing the corner speeds I have drastically reduced dross on this artsy stuff but have an over cut bump in some of the 90 degree corners. So I'm still playing with settings. I have noticed some play in the mounting surfaces of the collision protection mount, I'm not sure if this is causing my overshoot in corners or not. Might need to call Leon for some advice on this one.

I have the torch stop the arc before the end of the cut.

Not sure what you mean. Wouldn't that leave pieces connected and open line not finished? I know when I do a part with a leadin when it comes back around to finish the loop it seems to create a divot.

I may have to call you on day when you have a few minutes & see if you can explain it to me.

As to the dross, higher speeds on corners . . . my thinking is I would rather fight dross then stress my table. But then I have a XLS with 300+ lb gantry . . . I knew I should have stayed with a SuperB . . .

I think the SuperB has more agility when cutting . . . I think down the road I will up the horse power on my X & Y motors . . .

Steve

[AnotherDano]

Steve,

If you stop a cut just short of the end, remember that a 'line' has no width and the kerf isn't just on the sides of the cut.
Stop the cut at half the kerf and you will not leave a connection ~ and your divot might disappear too.

Dano

[CNCCAJUN]

Steve,

If you stop a cut just short of the end, remember that a 'line' has no width and the kerf isn't just on the sides of the cut.
Stop the cut at half the kerf and you will not leave a connection ~ and your divot might disappear too.

Dano

What would be the best method to accomplish this. . .?

Draw line "one kerf width short"

Or is this a G-Code change

Or should it be a setting in my machine software . .

Thanks in advance,
Steve

[AnotherDano]

Dunno, Steve.
I use PlasmaCam which has a setting for when to shut off the flame along the cut line, Pre or Post cut. It's the only software I know.

It stands to reason that if the cutting stops at HALF the width of the kerf, the outer reaches of the cut will end at the beginning. That's why I think the divot may be reduced or eliminated. What is a divot anyway; a flame cutting into air will swing toward metal. Plasma doesn't like cutting into nothing, right?

This might sound silly, but picture putting your finger through the hole in a doughnut and moving that doughnut over a counter top dusted heavily with sugar. Your finger is the mathematical line that the controller is following, but the path in the sugar is the actual cut goes beyond that line (kerf).

It's late and I can't think of a manly example,,, forgive me. If this makes no sense at all, let me know and I'll put more thought into it.

Depending on where that finger has been, it's OK to eat the doughnut at this time.

Dano

[CNCCAJUN]

Thanks . . . I think you may need a night time snack now, I know I do . . .

Steve

[TMC]

Here is what I have learned from countless hours of forum and video research. I've only been doing this for a few months so I by no means am experienced but with that said I have been trying some things and they do seem to improve the finished product.
When the machine commands the torch to cease firing the arc actually continues to burn for a period of time ( I believe we are talking milliseconds here) so the objective is to find the timing to extinguish the arc (command) so that it quits burning as it meets the finish line. As the software and torch reach the finish line in theory the arc will continue to burn and in doing so the arc continues to wander looking for fresh metal to arc to and burn hence the enlarged divot.So if you add the pierce divot and the finish divot together the mark is obviously enlarged.
Right now I have my arc extinguishing a distance of .02 from the end of cut on 1/8" material with 45amp fine cut.
In most cases I have been trying a 0.1 or 0.2 pierce delay instead of the 0.4ish the book calls for. I have also found on my machine typically I have to lower my voltage slightly from book specs on the thc.
I can definitely tell when settings are dead on with the fine cut consumables because there is a distinct sound (none) when it is cutting.And there will be no dross.
At least this is how i understand all this hope I am telling you correct info.
Steve I thought the XLS is a step above the Super B you should be able to make all the same adjustments and actually get better performance than me.

[CNCCAJUN]

Are you making these changes as needed depending on the piece you are working on?

Or do you leave your settings this way . . .

Steve

[TMC]

My goal is to be able to cut a piece that doesn't have what I consider a front and a back. Seems like the divot damage shows more on the under side of the metal when cut and always prevents me from a nice looking two sided piece. I seem to make changes and stumble across settings that work pretty well and stick with it but it seems like the settings don't always work for different pieces. So I guess I live with settings for a little while and then get a hair up my but to make me want to improve the cut again and it encourages me to start playing with settings. 3/16" and thicker material I don't seem to mess with settings to much, book works pretty well for me. 14 ga. and under is where it is a pain starts for artsy stuff. I have tried Jim Colt settings and while he says he gets dross free cuts I don't. I still have problems with something like a 1/2 oval. The rest of the piece will be really clean but small cuts like that have a heavy dross pile and it's difficult to remove.