You can see the wiring diagram here; https://forum.protoneer.co.nz/viewtopic.php?t=6979
Or here is the whole thing.
http://www.mediafire.com/folder/wc2cbytho9aen/Proma
Their is an example connection in the manual.
Touch off proma SD mach4 post processor
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hswaters
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- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2019 4:50 pm
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hswaters
- 1 Star Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2019 4:50 pm
Re: Touch off proma SD mach4 post processor
I have the wiring in a picture on mediafire. I will post a link here;
https://www.mediafire.com/file/5rzbatj4f4kublw/file
https://www.mediafire.com/file/5rzbatj4f4kublw/file
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hswaters
- 1 Star Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2019 4:50 pm
Re: Touch off proma SD mach4 post processor
Sorry about the long delay but I have been busy with other things. I will attach a page from the Proma manual that shows my wiring. Hopefully this attachment will work.
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robertspark
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Re: Touch off proma SD mach4 post processor
I am out of ideas to help you really.....
Given you are running USB, the only thing that I can think of is ground loops
explanation here (in 2nd paragraph) https://warp9td.com/index.php/documenta ... roundLoops
I had problems when I ran a USB Smooth Stepper, but in part that was probably my wiring in hindsight..... a common error is connecting all of the Zero Volt / Ground connections together from all power supplies (and sometimes the Chassis Earth connection too [V Bad idea])...... then all voltages are from that common zero volt line..... the problem is you can get current flow between all those Zero Volt / Ground connections back into each power supply
Also when I connected my USB cable from the USB Smooth Stepper to the PC there was a voltage difference between the chassis of the PC and the Chassis of the control cabinet..... this kind of killed the USB connection between the two and Mach3 (and the Smooth Stepper plugin) did not talk to the Smooth Stepper.
In the end, I switched to Ethernet, and have NEVER gone back to USB and never recommend it for cnc / plasma cutting.
One thing you can try.... is get a second USB cable, and cut the cable outer shieth and cut the shielding core. this will remove any link between the PC and the controller through the cable shield. It is worth a cheap shot and may work.
Another thing you can try ..... is to buy a USB signal isolator device (they are very common in the audio world who too deal with ground loops and circuit isolation to remove noise on their usb device signal lines).
https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+iso ... 24&bih=529
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=USB+isolator ... _sb_noss_2
I don't know if it will work but for $15-$20 its probably worth a shot and may work for you.
Sorry I could not be more helpful.
(if it does work (or does not) and you try it, please let us know so that we can advise anyone else who may have an issue in the future either way and we can remove the guess work of the suggestion).
Given you are running USB, the only thing that I can think of is ground loops
explanation here (in 2nd paragraph) https://warp9td.com/index.php/documenta ... roundLoops
I had problems when I ran a USB Smooth Stepper, but in part that was probably my wiring in hindsight..... a common error is connecting all of the Zero Volt / Ground connections together from all power supplies (and sometimes the Chassis Earth connection too [V Bad idea])...... then all voltages are from that common zero volt line..... the problem is you can get current flow between all those Zero Volt / Ground connections back into each power supply
Also when I connected my USB cable from the USB Smooth Stepper to the PC there was a voltage difference between the chassis of the PC and the Chassis of the control cabinet..... this kind of killed the USB connection between the two and Mach3 (and the Smooth Stepper plugin) did not talk to the Smooth Stepper.
In the end, I switched to Ethernet, and have NEVER gone back to USB and never recommend it for cnc / plasma cutting.
One thing you can try.... is get a second USB cable, and cut the cable outer shieth and cut the shielding core. this will remove any link between the PC and the controller through the cable shield. It is worth a cheap shot and may work.
Another thing you can try ..... is to buy a USB signal isolator device (they are very common in the audio world who too deal with ground loops and circuit isolation to remove noise on their usb device signal lines).
https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+iso ... 24&bih=529
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=USB+isolator ... _sb_noss_2
I don't know if it will work but for $15-$20 its probably worth a shot and may work for you.
Sorry I could not be more helpful.
(if it does work (or does not) and you try it, please let us know so that we can advise anyone else who may have an issue in the future either way and we can remove the guess work of the suggestion).
