PM85 not firing

[redheadfred]

I thought I was upgrading going from my pm45 to the 85 but have almost given up trying to cut metal art as it will not fire to pierce at least once a job , almost a dozen times on a job over the weekend. Mach is showing it should be firing, I've replaced the pigtail from the power supply to the module , checked my ground, air is good and all new consumables. Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks in advance

[SegoMan DeSigns]

I'm assuming your machine torch, Do a manual jumper on # 3&4 pins it should fire the torch. Check to make sure consumables are seated properly,

[cuttinparts]

Any error codes on the LCD when this happens?

[redheadfred]

Thanks for the replies , getting a 030 code with all new consumables. Waiting to hear back from hypertherm

[redheadfred]

Still havent heard anything back from Hypertherm.... This will be the 2nd hypertherm Ive had issues with now in 3 yrs , not real happy with the quality for the price.

[djreiswig]

Hypertherm Technical service (800) 643-9878

[redheadfred]

djreiswig Ive been in contact with them quite a few times via email and phone. Havent gotten a response since the beginning of the week in the meantime my table has been sitting. Im getting ready to box the pos up and send it back since its basically brand new

[jimcolt]

I'll be happy to help you solve the 0-30 error code issue on your Powermax. The 0-30 indicates stuck consumables. The electrode inside the torch must move freely from its contact position with the nozzle (at rest) to its fully retracted position (upwards in the torch). The first, and most common thing that causes the electrode to not properly retract is worn consumables, especially the electrode or the swirl ring. Assuming you may have already replaced those and the issue persisted, here is a list (in order of most common issues to cause a 0-30) that will help you solve the issue.

1. Overtightened retaining cap. The consumables retaining cap holds the consumables in place and directs air flow through the torch for developing the plasma cutting arc as well as for torch body and shield cap cooling. It seals to the torch body with an o-ring . Overtightening this cap can distort the swirl ring inside the torch....which can impede electrode movement. Loosen the cap and re-tighten so it is just snug enough so the nozzle is held in place. Often this solves the 0-30 error code.

2. Inlet air pressure starvation. First, I will tell you that if you do not have a pressure gauge tee'd directly on the plasma cutter inlet fitting, then you will not be able to troubleshoot this issue. A gauge anywhere else in your air system cannot get the real time static and dynamic inlet pressure readings necessary to determine if this is the cause of the 0-30 code. You can buy a 150 psi pressure switch and a few plumbing fittings at any local hardware store for $10 or $12, so get the parts and install one. Read the pressure on this gauge when no air is flowing at the torch, then read the pressure with air flowing. You will see a lower reading when the air is flowing and the difference in the two pressures is the result of pressure drop caused by the components in your air plumbing system. Hose diameter, hose length affect dynamic (flowing pressure). Every fitting decreases the dynamic pressure. The biggest culprit will be filters, moisture traps, etc., often they are rather free flowing when new, but with some particulate buildup or moisture they will restrict flow and lower your dynamic pressure when air flows at the torch Keep in mind that your compressor also likely has a low pressure activation (when the motor/pump turns on at the lowest point of its cycle (check this gauge reading when the compressor first activates) and a shut off when it reaches its highest pressure. Don't brush this off because you have a 30 hp compressor with a 1000 gallon tank......those things mean nothing, the plumbing between your compressor and the plasma inlet fitting is what affects the dynamic (flowing) pressure. If the pressure (dynamic) ever gets close to 90 psi, then this may be the problem. I like to see inlet pressure somewhere around 110 to 120 psi when air is flowing at the torch, and in some cases you may need to increase the low pressure cut-on pressure on your compressor. This often solves the 0-30 error code. Other things.....if there is a lot of difference between static and dynamic pressure on this inlet gauge (I have seen the pressure drop as much as 25 to 30 psi when torch air flow activates) then you may want to determine what in your plumbing system is causing the issue.

3. Piercing too close. Pay careful attention to the pierce height....not what you set the pierce height at, but what it is actually achieving for pierce height. If the torch tries to pierce too close to the work piece...that can pinch off air flow in the torch and it can impede the internal electrode movement. This happens more often with the FineCut consumables.

4. Aftermarket Consumables. They come in packages that look very much like Hypertherm packaging. The consumables look the same. If you got a great deal on these consumables online....then you probably have consumables made offshore that claim to be genuine parts. These consumables cost less to buy, cost more to use (they don't last long), and can overheat and damage your torch. A common cause of 0-30 error codes.

5. Internal air flow issues with the Powermax. Most often this can be a plugged onboard moisture trap / filter. Check them per the troubleshooting section in your operators manual. If the filter bowl and filter show signs of oil or water droplets.....then this may be the cause.

Last, but not least, the Hypertherm technical service team is second to none. I rarely hear of issues where they do not respond to customers. Make sure you are using the contact information from the operators manual, 1 800 643 9878 or technical.service@hypertherm.com , and that you are providing them with the correct callback info. They are there to help you and are very well trained at what they do. Good luck, Jim Colt

[redheadfred]

I've been dealing with Garrick Ippolito from Hypertherm , machine is less than a year old , all new consumables and the shop air isn't the issue. After 2 weeks they are going to send me a solenoid , if that doesn't get it I will be boxing it up and sending it back.

[redheadfred]

Just to follow up it ended up being a bad solenoid , got it going about 2 weeks ago. Thanks for all the help and suggestions

[Kevin Johnson]

I also had a bad solenoid with my PW65 on a fairly new machine. It was replaced under warranty and I am very, very pleased.

I have to say that the quality and speed of the Hypermax technical department is what convinced me to again buy a PM (I had used a PM 1000 for about 16 years).

I had an issue with an IR compressor and the difference in tech support is night and day. I still have not heard back from them (going on three weeks now). This is after I have purchased at least five of their compressor systems. Two weeks ago I went out and had a local shop fabricate a part for the compressor. I got there with my wife twenty minutes to closing on a Friday. He stopped everything that he was doing and fabricated the part in twenty minutes. That is service!

[TJS]

I have been fighting 0-30 for at least 5 months now. I have the gauge set up at the unit. Added another dessicant set up as well as all new consumables. My PM85 was brand new a few years ago. It sat in a box while I built my table. It has maybe a total of an hour or so on it. I think I am heading for a bad solenoid as well. I have followed all of Jim's suggestions as well. Does anyone know how to actually diagnose a bad solenoid.

[acourtjester]

TJS I retired after 40 years being an Electronics Field Engineer, I can tell you sometimes the simplest form of troubleshooting is just replacing the part. I don't know how much a new solenoid is but peace of mind is worth it.
There is a term "Shotgunning it" meaning you just replace many parts to cover all bases.

[TJS]

TJS I retired after 40 years being an Electronics Field Engineer, I can tell you sometimes the simplest form of troubleshooting is just replacing the part. I don't know how much a new solenoid is but peace of mind is worth it.
There is a term "Shotgunning it" meaning you just replace many parts to cover all bases.

I hear ya. They are 253.00