Hypertherm PowerMax 45XP optimal settings

[BSMW]

I own a plasma table and I'm rather new to plasma cutting, I was looking for some information on amp / ipm setting for clean cuts, recommendations on consumables etc. for the 45XP. I apologize if this comes off pretty vague, but it's a starting point for some better questions for me.

[see&see]

Everything you need is in the Hypertherm manual. (link Below) Speeds, metal thickness and consumable requirements.. There are no real secrets for clean cuts, digital height control is a huge plus tho...


https://www.hypertherm.com/en-US/hypert ... rmax45-xp/

[Tradinghouse]

I see this post is fairly old. Did you ever receive an answerror and get it cutting like you want. If not, maybe I can help as I have that same set up and am cutting pretty well dross free. Just let me know!

[Dfrick23]

Care to share any pics of your 45xp cuts on some 3/8 mild steel? And what speed do you run at for 3/8?

[jimcolt]

Here is 1/2" cut on my cnc table with the 45 XP, cut at exactly book specs (pierce height, pierce delay, cut height, cut speed, amperage). 3/8" will look similar.:

[Dfrick23]

Those cuts look pretty much how mine do after clean up. Love my xp.. weird enough there's less dross on 1/2" than on the 3/8.. anything 1/4 and under is pretty much miminal dross (except some artsy corners and detals).. still cant get the 3/8 to come out decent. Maybe it's just the mild sheet I have.. i usually cut ar500 or 600 and i get quite a bit but those sheets are covered in scale. Figured it was to be expected on those hardened sheets

[mustang186]

did you use the same settings for the AR500 steel VS. the mild Steel?

[Dfrick23]

Yea runs all the same settings.. penetration hasn't ever been a problem..

[Jfile]

Jimcolt and others:

I have a Powermax 45XP. Not that it really has anything to do with it, but it's about 6 months old. I'm cutting primarily 14 gauge and 16 gauge. Actually, more 16 than 14. I'm using book settings. I get a clean top cut but medium dross build up on the bottom side in all curves, arcs, and short straight cuts, However, on a long straight cut (2 or 3 inches or longer) the bottom of the cut is basically dross free.

Is this normal or are there some minor settings that I could change to minimize this? Currently, I drop the cut piece in a 50/50 muratic acid bath, then neutralize with a soda bath. Then I can knock much of the dross off with the edge of a small chisel. Then I use a 120 grit flap disc to get a nice, clean metal piece. It's working for me but if I could eliminate some of those steps it sure would be nice.

Thanks

[jimcolt]

Dross is primarily caused by cutting too slow. Since you say you are cutting at book settings, and that on straight sections of the cut the dross tends to minimize, or go away, then my conclusion has to be that your machine is achieving the book (dross free) speed on the straights, however is slowing in corners and details. All cnc machines have to slow for features and do it based on the capability of the electronics and the drive motors and their need to 1. stay on the cut path, 2. overcome the moving mass (weight of the moving parts.). Looks like you have an LDR table with Linux CNC controls and likely stepper motors....I would suggest speaking with Dan at LDR and asking if he thinks you could increase acceleration on your particular table. Increase it too much and the machine may start creating ripples in the cut edge during acceleration and deacceleration (in and out of turns). Dan could offer advice since he is familiar with the machine and electronics. Good luck. Jim Colt Hypertherm PS, say hi to Dan at LDR for me

[ben de lappe]

Personally I prefer a knotted wire wheel cup brush to knock the dross off. When used to clean a proper cut the results are unparalleled in my opinion. It removes the dross but does not grind down the material leaving sharp edges or thin spots etc., basically knocks the dross off. For my art (the majority of my plasma work) I primarily used 12ga. CR steel, little more expensive but not Chinese junk that wont cut right. Combination of good steel and a good cut makes dross removal with the wire wheel the easiest method for me.

FYI: The Mrs. worked in the shop with me, constantly by my side for many years. She ran the machine, monitored G-code, assisted with design, finished all artwork, even taught her to tig 20ga. stainless better than any man in the shop ...simply phenomenal...but she NEVER removed dross with a wire wheel. She did rename the knotted wire wheel cup brush though. It is now known locally by the much shorter common name, "Wheel O Pain" So be forewarned. Use of this device WILL throw chunks of dross across a 100' shop with deadly accuracy and occasionally imbed dislodged wire from the brush approximately 1/8" (.125) into ones flesh...primarily the one using said device, but in my experience is well worth the time saved.
So put on your big boy panties and let the dross fly!

[islander261]

+1
Face shield, leather apron and hearing protection.

John

[Badger1bear]

Hi Guys. I know this is an old post but I am also after information on the optimal setting for the 45xp. speed height amps etc I am starting out from scratch so any help will be much appreciated

[robertspark]

book specs?

https://www.hypertherm.com/Download?fil ... &zip=False

https://www.rapidwelding.com/files/Hype ... Manual.pdf

[robertspark]

..... increase acceleration ....... Increase it too much and the machine may start creating ripples in the cut edge during acceleration and deacceleration (in and out of turns).......

I know this is an old post thats been brought back to life and I've heard / read that Jim Colt may have retired

Can anyone elaborate on why this would be the case?

Is it similar to ghosting with 3d printing and resonance