Pasmacam down draft dimension drawing

[Aramon1]

do any have a good idea how build a compact PlasmaCam downdraft?

[knoeberm]

I've had 2 different plasmacam tables with a downdraft. The first one taught me a lot of lessons!
I cut panels out of 20 gauge, then put the ductwork out the side opposite the control box - only because of the location of the table, though. I think I'd prefer it out the side by the box. The two end panels I made a quick detach so that I could get at the space under the table easily. I considered making a cone, but just closing in the table has worked really well for me. The fan on my first one was a 3000 cfm sealed fan from grainger, I think. Given the situation, I had to make a filter system for it - I used regular furnace filters, and they worked okay, but plugged up fast. Ducting the fan outside would be the best way to do it, if you can. You can also make it draw better if you get a welding blanket, cut it into squares, and cover the open parts of the table.
The table i have now is ducted outside with a much bigger fan, and it works great! NOTHING gets away from it, even if I'm only cutting a small piece. I have no idea how many cfm it is - w converted it from a hood to a downdraft, but the fan is a 3-phase, and is on the roof.
The downdraft is definitely the way to go. I've used a plasmacam set up as a water table, and that does a good job of catching the fumes and sparks, but you get splashback on the pieces, wich can cause problems with finishing.

Marvin

[Aramon1]

do you have a photo or dxf file for the in closed frame

[plasma_burn]

Interesting that you didn't like the water table. I currently have a down draft and the two biggest draw backs are the extra floor space it takes up, noise from the fan (not that big of a deal really) and when running in the winter it is sucking the warm air out of the shop.

I have been thinking of building a water table to address these issues so I am curious about the problems you experienced with the finish when cut over a water table.

[AnotherDano]

I just got a bid from our local HVAC guy. No filtration or dust/smoke collection. Just a 16' long 12" flex duct that would be shoved under a partially open garage door. He said that a 1,000cfm blower would be way more than I'd need.
$2,200.00.

I think not. And 1000cfm is only half what I would consider adequate.

Back to the DIY option.

[Eagle Mtn Metal Works]

Dano
I too have had mine bid with an HVAC contractor and I do believe that some of them don't understand the importance of the exhaust system. The first guy keep insisting that an hood would work better then a down draft. Needless to say I didn't go with him. I have had no problem with the down draft system that my Buddie and I came up with and it was only about $3.300.00 with the 5k cfm industrial exhaust fan and the duct work. It took two guys about 4.5 hr to install. The only to go if you don't install a water table.
Rod

[srp]

The reccomendation for CFM capacity is probably in the 100 CFM per squre foot of table. A 4 x 8 table would be 3200 CFM. This figure would be ideal however if you are like most people trying to scratch a living out of this business this could be reduced. At my previous location I used a fan set with a backward inclined blower about 2000 CFM and it worked fine. Bear in mind that the type of fan blade is important. Forward curve blade are not good - They load up with crud and then the efficiency goes to pieces. Backward Inclined (BI) work about the best. At my present location I am using a sidewall exhauster of about 1300 CFM. With a full sheet of metal on the table the fumes are not bad at all. When I am cutting from remnants I use pieces of 2 x 4 hardboard to cover over the open areas.

The part of the design that most people don't pay attention to is your make-up air. If you are exhausting air from your building it will be replaced from somewhere. The better designs also includes some type of make-up air fan with a slightly lower capacity than the exhaust fan. The system design should maintain a slight negative so dust stays in the cutting room and a minimum of building air is exhausted (heated or cooled) $$$$. With this type of system the placement of the make-up air outlets are also important keeping in mind the flow of air in the room and in the area of the operator. Most HVAC people do not understand industrial ventilation very well.

When you are placing you cutter or laying out your shop alittle planning can make a big difference

[Aramon1]

Pasmacam down draft dimension drawing
need 4 PC and 18" square base.it could be open or closed in the bottom.

[DARRYL21270]

I understand that this is a forum where people are willing to share their knowledge about certain things, but if you need help closing in a box with a hole for an exhaust maybe using a plasma torch isn't such a safe thing to be doing.

[aicomp]

Darryl,
Reading your posts I see that you know everything already. I think you could contribute more on a forum where everyone else is smart like you.

[DARRYL21270]

I know how to close in a box and make a hole for an exhaust fan and I know how to use a tape measure so if that means I know everything then I thank you for the compliment. My point was that if you can figure out how to import files, set the correct torch height and cut speeds, set the air pressure just right and use your torch without causing serious bodily injury then other things seem like childs play. Unless you have trouble getting out of a paper bag.

[Platt Mfg]

hey daryl dont know what your big deal is in these last to posts and why you are so mad but please dont take it out on people here i dont care if you dont know how to read a tape mesure and you need some help thats why were here to help ill draw you a diagram on how to read a tape come on get over it its not worth what your getting yourself into you get enough people pissed off and you wont get help when you need it

[aicomp]

I know how to close in a box and make a hole for an exhaust fan and I know how to use a tape measure so if that means I know everything then I thank you for the compliment. My point was that if you can figure out how to import files, set the correct torch height and cut speeds, set the air pressure just right and use your torch without causing serious bodily injury then other things seem like childs play. Unless you have trouble getting out of a paper bag.

Trust me, I was not making a compliment. You are like the smallest package in the world...a person who is all wrapped up in himself.

[DARRYL21270]

You know what I find particularly interesting whenever I make comments , it's the fact that everytime I post something someone doesn't agree with , the name calling starts. Your an idiot , your a small person, your a know it all, etc. Is that neccessary or is that the only way you know of to resolve conflict. For better or worse this is a forum and I have just as much right to post on here as you do. I am a contributing member who has paid to post here and although I don't post that frequently , I have a right to do so nonetheless. I believe those kinds of comments are not welcome here according to the sites policy , so maybe when you have some free time you should read them.


Have a nice day

[hinesigns]

Here are some photos of my syste. Hope it helps.

all plazmatable 004.jpg

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use rare earth magnets to hold up pannels.

[DXF]

I built an upside down pyramid that tapers to a square and a 4" diameter ring to attach a 4" hose to a 1200 cfm exaust fan that is vented outside. The only problem I have is I have to crack a window for make-up air because my shop is sealed so tight. Works great.

Dave Hanks