Plasmacam Table Frame & Leg Dimensions

[screwball]

I need the dimensions of a 4x4 plasma table I want to build my own. Legs and the frame. I called plasmacam any they would not sell me these items. I have every thank to make my gotorch into a 4x4 table. I don't want to make it out of angel iron. I will be glade to pay you for your time. Thanks Screwball ( Dennis)

[rdj357]

Hmm, maybe someone can chime in - I have the 510 so don't have those dimensions. Considering you have the GoTorch, it wouldn't take much to use it as a pattern to get the spacing and size of everything?

[DPC Scott]

So in a similar situation. Going to purchase factory rails/ gantry and factory harness for a 4x4 or 4x8 table. Is there a DXF for the Legs/table itself anywhere?

[adbuch]

You should be able to take a look at some images for the Plasmacam table (DHC2 for example) and draw something up similar to the Plasmacam legs/table. Study some of the images, and take a look at some of Keith Fenner's Plasmacam videos where is has his 4x4 partially disassembled for modifications. If you purchase a copy of the Video Manual from Plasmacam, it has a section on assembling the table so you can see the individual parts. It shouldn't be too much trouble to come up with something (in form and function) very close to the factory parts.
David

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[abmetal]

If my memory serves me correctly, an individual posted the name of the company that makes, or made Plasmacam components that one could purchase. I wouldn't have a clue as how to locate that post in the search function but hopefully somebody smarter than me can find it. It's here somewhere.

Allen

[adbuch]

Plasmacam manufacturers their own metal components (frame, slats, controller, etc.) for Go Torch, Plasmacam, Samson.
David

[abmetal]

That's what I'd always assumed until I read that post. Apparently at one time another company made some of their parts.

Allen

[adbuch]

Don't know about that! When I spoke with the Plasmacam guy when I was ordering my first (of 3) machines, he said the manufacturing was right across the street from the sale office in Colorado City, Colorado. In fact, I had him walk over there and ask the "boss" to answer my question about the paint on the machine. He confirmed that it was indeed powder coating. And I must say- an excellent job. As a mechanical engineer and fabricator, I consider the engineering, fit, and finish of the Plasmacam products I received to be First Class - second to none.
David

https://plasmacam.com/about.php

[abmetal]

My first table was a 4x4 Plasmacam and a fine table. My second one was the Samson table and the finish on the gantry was a joke. When I opened the crate the powdercoating had flaked off and was in the bottom of the box. I could tell by looking that there was no metal preparation...rusty, rusty. Somebody snoozed there.

Allen

[adbuch]

What year did you buy your Samson? Do you still have it? Please let us see some photos of the rust. If what you say is true, perhaps I'll look elsewhere for my next table.
David

[abmetal]

We bought it in December, 2010. We still use it and it's been and still a good machine, lots of production work done on it. But it just kinda' irked me that when you pay that much for a piece of equipment, it would at least have a decent finish on it. What's in the pic is pretty much what it looked like on the front side and the top had flaked off and was laying in the bottom of the crate. It was rusted just as seen in the pic. Clearly, the metal was not prepped.

Allen

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[adbuch]

Don't know what to tell you. Perhaps the Samsons are/were manufactured at a different location/plant, or perhaps back in 2010 they were subbed out. In any case, I have purchased 3 of the Plasmacam tables (the blue ones) in the last 3 years and I stand by my previous comment. " As a mechanical engineer and fabricator, I consider the engineering, fit, and finish of the Plasmacam products I received to be First Class - second to none."
David

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[robertspark]

I hate powder coating and try never to buy anything powder coated because the few things that I have (4x4 rock sliders, and spare wheel holders have come away and rusted badly.....

After my research into the process of powder coatings I suspect that a large number of powder coatings are poorly applied where the metal is not allowed to heat up uniformly so (from what I understand and may be 100% wrong.... But happy to learn and remove my bias) when you have un-uniform sections like a spare wheel holder .... The areas around the welds and non tubular bits may not heat up fully to the right temperature to allow for surface adhesion.... Also if there are long sections ... Like a gantry maybe the oven may not heat up the metal in a uniform manor (maybe best to apply a slow rising heat so that all of the metal is heat soaked)

But I've never applied a powder coating and only the few items I've had all rusted badly and the coating could be removed in big pieces very easily using a scraper or utility knife from some areas and not at all from other areas where it had bonded properly.

How you tell what is a good or bad coating at time of purchase with a nice continuous plastic coating I have no idea until the coating is damaged and corrosion sets in under this layer

Happy to separate my myths and speculation from someone who does it well themselves please

[adbuch]

I think it all depends on the prep and execution.
David

[Rodw]

Quality powder coating companies I use sandblast the material, undercoat it and then top coat it. To me that looks like it was never undercoated. We have had 2mm steel warp becasue of the heat generated from the sand blasting so we are not talking about entry level gear.

I always specify that on any purchase order eg. "Sandblast, undercoat and powder coat in Satin black" or similar

[adbuch]

Thanks for sharing Rod. That's good information to know
David